For one-dollar vegetarian meals and cutting edge contemporary Japanese cuisine. For colonial mansions, 27-storey family homes and streets of matchbox apartments. For morning ragas and after-hours rock and roll. For performances that start late and bars that shut early. For milky chai and gourmet coffee. For train tracks and Bollywood soundtracks. For villages within a metropolis. For outsiders with inside information. For 16 million people. No place on earth is quite like Mumbai.